"Create Your Own Tumbler" Travel Mug Sweater

I don't recall where I first saw this idea, maybe a friend had favorited someone's project. But I just loved this when I saw it and had to try it myself. The first project I saw was from Ravelry user jpknitknot, but I based my project from the notes that Ravelry user swellknitter took. I changed the decreases at the bottom.

Anyway, here is a rough guide to how I made mine. I used Opal sock yarn, which is 465 yards in a 100g ball. I used my 40" circulars in 2.25mm using magic loop. I saw that others had used their 8" or 9" circulars, but I felt it was too fiddly for me at this circumference, and used magic loop instead. I got about 8 stitches per inch, and knit until my cozy had reached about 6.25" before starting the decreases. You can block it to fit if it's a little small. Mine felt snug, but was very fitted, not loose.

Roughly, the pattern is to make your first decrease about 2" after the ribbing, and then again every 1.5" (twice) for a total of 6 decreased stitches. Once you knit the length of the mug, start the bottom decreases. If you want to try using a different yarn, try to knit a circumference of about 7.5" so that you have some negative ease (the mug is about 8.5" at the top).

Materials:
Fingering weight yarn (about 65-80 yards)
Size 2.25mm circulars or DPNS (or whatever is needed to meet gauge)
I bought the mug here at the Starbucks Store. It had better reviews than other brands.


CO 60 sts using long-tail cast on. Knit in the round (using magic loop with long circulars).

It curls a little when it's off the mug, but if you choose not to use ribbing, the outer plastic sleeve will hold it up. Use the look you want!

Rows 1-4: 1x1 ribbing (knit1, purl 1 across) - or just start in stockinette.
Rows 5-29: knit
Row 30: [K2tog, K28]* twice. (58 sts)
Row 31-47: knit.
Row 48: [K2tog, k27]* twice. (56 sts)
Row 49- 64: knit
Row 65: [K2tog, k26]* twice (54 sts).
Continue knitting until your cozy reaches the bottom curve of the stainless steel interior of the mug, about 6.25". For me, it was until row 77. Decreases for me started at row 78.

Decreases (6 decreases every other row):
1: K7, k2tog around (48 sts)
2: Knit
3: K6, k2tog around (42 sts)
4: Knit
5: Knit 5, k2tog around (36 sts)
6: Knit
7: Knit 4, k2tog around (30 sts)
8: Knit
9: Kknit 3, k2tog around (24 sts)
10: Knit
11: Knit 2, k2tog around (18 sts)
12: Knit
13: Knit 1, k2tog around (12 sts)
Cut yarn, draw through remaining sts.

Tip: Try on the cozy as you go. If you are getting close to the center and you haven't decreased to the end, you can skip a plain knit row (12) to decrease faster. If you find that you need more rows to meet in the middle, knit row 14 around, then row 15 K2tog around.

Also, if you are using a different brand or style of mug, here are some basic guidelines:
- If it is a straight cylinder and does not gradually get smaller at the bottom, do not do decreases until the bottom portion.
-Measure the top of your mug- as a rule, you want to make your sleeve slightly smaller than your mug so it hugs it, just like when you're making socks. So for mine, it starts off as 8.5", so I started mine at 60 sts which is 7.5".
-When you start your bottom decreases, if you use a different stitch count than the pattern suggests, just make sure it divides by 6, or find the closest stitch count to divide by. For example, if you are using a thicker yarn and cast on fewer stitches and end up with 50 instead of 54 sts, just decrease 5 times (k8, k2tog). Or if you have  56 sts, decrease 7 times (K6, k2tog).

-Another thing to consider: When you put a hot beverage in your mug it will loosen the fibers of your yarn, so you don't want it to be loose fitting when you make it. Also, it may not be a good idea to use acrylic because of the heat factor.

Fitbit One Wristband - crochet version

Materials:
Size 4.0mm hook, or appropriate size depending on how loose your tension is
Small amount of worsted yarn (leftover scraps will do)
Yarn needle

Row 1: Chain 5, HDC  in second chain from the hook, only in the back loops. Complete 3 more HDC for a total of 4. Turn chain, and HDC 4 in the front loops. (This image is helpful)

Rows 2-10: Work in the round, 8 HDC stitches per round (do not join for each round).
At the end of row 10, sl into next two stitches (I found that the start of the round migrates and this was to make the seam of the pocket align with the edge of the band).  The pocket should measure about 2" and be longer than the Fitbit once inside. Try it out before continuing.

Begin Band:
Row 1: Ch 2, DC in same stitch, DC in next 3 stitches.  (2 chain stitches +4 DC)
Row 2: Ch2, turn, DC 4.
Repeat row 2 until the band is a snug fit on your wrist, the DC will stretch. For me, 11 rows of DC was perfect.

When you're done, leave a long tail for sewing, and sew the end of the band to the closed end of the pocket. The FitBit should fit snugly inside, so if you feel like it's too loose, go down a hook size. If it's too tight, go up a size. It should be snug, but not difficult to slip in, and I made it so that the pocket is longer than the Fitbit so that it won't slide out easily. I also find that you can wear the wristband with the opening on the inside, toward your wrist, but it's not absolutely necessary.

The Ravelry page featuring this pattern can be found here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fitbit-one-or-pocket-wristband-2

Fitbit One Wristband

It's been a long, LONG time since I've posted anything here. I just wanted to share the sleep tracking wristband I created for mine and my husband's new Fitbit One, as we find it more comfortable than the one it comes with.

Materials:
4.0 (size 6) double pointed knitting needles (or go down a size if you tend to knit more loosely. I am a tight knitter!)
Small amount of Worsted yarn (I used leftover scraps)
Yarn needle

Long tail CO 10 sts.
K1P1 rib in the round until the pocket measures a little longer than the Fitbit (without the case). Mine was about 2 inches.

Then, divide the stitches evenly on 2 needles and knit the 2 rows as one to close the pocket, which is known as a 3 needle bind off.

Knit the band (5 sts) in garter stitch until it is the right length for the wristband, keeping in mind that it will stretch out a bit once you try it on. I stretched mine out a little first so it fit a little more snug.

BO and use the tail of the yarn to sew the BO edge to one side of the pocket opening. The band can be worn with the opening on the inside to prevent the Fitbit from falling out, but it isn't necessary. It stays in pretty well as long as the pocket fits snugly over the Fitbit.

The Ravelry pattern page featuring this pattern can be found here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fitbit-one-or-pocket-wristband